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Bad behaviour:

Bad behaviour:

The misuse of behaviour terms in dog training needs to stop

What’s bad behaviour to humans? A dog couldn’t tell you. A dog is born perfectly able to be a dog, and hang out with dogs, and when we adopt him into our human family, he has an awful lot to learn. SOme of the things dogs do are reflexive, and some are instinctive. Still others are learned (such as social behaviour). Not all normal dog behaviour is considered acceptable in human society. We have to teach the dog acceptable social behaviour. Eliminating outdoors, not biting and mouthing to elicit play, not stealing food out of the trash are examples of this. If you thought about it, a dog is an English as a second language student from a completely foreign culture with absolutely no intrinsic way to know how to behave around humans. We owe it to him to make it easy for him to learn.

There are still people clinging to the notion that family dogs, or any dogs have an instinctive hierarchical pack system that makes some of them want to rule their families. These people apparently make up their own terms for this invented hierarchy and may one day publish a dictionary for their terms like “Alpha Dominant” “Beta Dominant” “Treat training” “calm energy” and their mis-extrapolations of terms used in learning like “Positive Reinforcement” training, and “Punishment”(which they of course never use, because their definition of “positive reinforcement” includes neck jabs and electronic collars). Even the term “behaviourist” is used to define a veterinarian who specializes in Applied Animal Behaviour. I’m not going to lie. This misinterpretation, creative misuse and development of entirely new, immeasurable, not quite definable, fluid, terms really bugs me.

Applied Animal Behaviour geeks hold that all animals learn in the same way. We have our own set of definitions when it comes to how dogs and other animals learn. These are not made up, fluid definitions. They come from the solid, measurable, indisputable facts that science requires. Here are the raw indisputable facts about the way dogs learn.

First, there was Ivan Pavlov. Pavlov worked with dogs and studied their digestive juices. Pavlov’s assistant would ring a bell before he fed the dogs. Pavlov noticed the dogs started to drool when they heard the bell. This little tidbit of information meant an antecedent (the thing that comes directly before the behaviour, in this case the bell) could be used to manipulate the dog’s involuntary behaviour. So even when there was no food presented afterward, the dogs still drooled at the sound of the bell.

This is called classical conditioning. It was the basis of modern behavioural theory. We still use it in classroom settings or in dog training by manipulating the antecedent so the dog can develop a positive conditioned emotional response to different environmental factors.

But learning isn’t just about involuntary responses to antecedents. Even fish can learn to use their their behaviour to effect the consequence (what happens right after a behaviour). In the 1950’s BF Skinner was studying how animals did this. He came up with Operant Conditioning learning process which was divided into 4 quadrants of behaviour based on Reinforcement (getting more of a behaviour) and Punishment (getting less of a behaviour) and Extinction (behaviour is neither reinforced or punished and after becoming exaggerated for a short time, it goes away.

  1. Reinforcement: Increases a behaviour
    • Positive reinforcement: the animal gets something it likes and the behaviour increases
    • Negative Reinforcement: Something the animal doesn’t like is taken away, and the behaviour increases
  2. Punishment: Decreases a behaviour
    • Positive punishment: We add something the animal doesn’t like and the behaviour decreases
    • Negative punishment: We take something away that the animal likes and the behaviour decreases.

Good dog trainers and dog behaviour professionals know how to make these two learning procedures work. Great dog trainers and behaviourists are adept enough at manipulating antecedents and reinforcement that they don’t ever need to delve into punishment. Imagine using shoulder/neck jabs (antecedent) to train a sea lion. You’d likely get some sort of aggressive defense response (behaviour)from that and then you’d stop (consequence). Sometimes neck and shoulder jabs get the same aggressive defense response from a dog. And so unless you are crazy, you stop, at least for a second or two.

Now you have a Behavioural law taking effect. Thorndike’s law of effect:

Responses that produce a satisfying effect in a particular situation become more likely to occur again in that situation, and responses that produce a discomforting effect become less likely to occur again in that situation.”

So you have created a situation where the dog is being conditioned to an aggressive response. The more a behaviour repeats successfully, the more likely it is to occur in a more exaggerated form. And every behaviour leaves a chemical imprint in the limbic system of the brain which changes the Synapses patterns permanently. You can never erase a behaviour forever. Once it has repeated successfully, you can imprint a new behaviour over top of it, but given the right set of circumstances, the behaviour will be back in a more exaggerated form. Sorry-I got carried away in behaviour speak there- just avoid setting your dog up to defend himself and you are golden. Got it?

Great dog trainers (the ones who win championships and titles with their dogs and/or have letters after their names) use food rewards and reward markers with their dogs because food meets a basic need, and according to behavioural science, it is the most effective reinforcer you can use, when applied in the right schedule. (I will get into this in another post). Good trainers can condition other reinforcers (toys, touch) to be almost as reinforcing as food, but food is right at the base of the hierarchy of needs and is often easy and convenient to use in training when a dog is beginning to learn a new behaviour, such as paying attention to us instead of performing unwanted behaviour that has repeated, such as barking at another dog.

Maslows Hierarchy of Needs

An astute trainer never tries to use the food itself to distract the dog from barking. Instead, the presence of the other dog becomes the antecedent to our dog looking at us, and getting marked and rewarded for this. This happens for many repetitions and works progressively closer to a goal (such as walking right past another dog without reacting or being interested at all in the other dog. We are using both classical and operant conditioning and we always set the dog up in an environment where he can succeed. And it works. Because it is measurable. It’s indisputable. It’s science.

Dogs don’t do anything to try to be your boss or another dog’s boss. They are dogs, not hairy members of an innate corporate hierarchy, bent on upward mobility with no real reinforcement for working their way to the top. No award winning animal trainer or veterinary behaviourist believes this. This is rubbish and, for the sake of dogs and their well meaning owners, it needs to stop.

Get calm behaviour the easy way

Get calm behaviour the easy way

Do you have a dog who gets upset at the vet’s office, when you brush him, or even when you go to trim his nails? Getting calm dog behaviour is in the palm of your hand.

Thoroughly teaching a chin rest before you do any of the above can help a dog be comfortable and relaxed through the whole procedure. The idea is to teach the chin rest by clicking downward pressure on your palm upward hand and rewarding while the dog is still in position. Usually 20 repetitions is plenty. Then began making the time before he gets the treat longer and longer until the dog just rests his head on your hand. Next, have a friend introduce sight of the brush right before you cue the chin rest with either a visual (hand in front of him, palm up, or a verbal cue (“chin” works well). The sight of the brush is going to become the cue that a chin rest, with requisite goodies is coming up. Once he is thoroughly used to the sight of the brush, and immediately rests his head in your hand when he sees it, then you can start bringing it close to him and continue marking and feeding. Last, he will rest his head in your hand while he is being brushed. You can switch this up with the same technique and different tools. Just be very sure to work very gradually. Good dog behaviour is easy if we make it easy for the dog to understand what we want. If you like the video please like it and subscribe.

Hot dogs!

Hot dogs!

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You can help your dog stay cool this summer

5 tips to help your dog beat the heat

Summer heat can be hard on dogs. If your dog has a shorter than average muzzle (Boxers, bulldogs pugs, some Mastiffs) or thick, dark coloured coat, it’s even harder for him to stay cool when the weather is sweltering. Here are 5 easy tips that will help any dog keep his cool on these hot summer days.

1) Avoid car travel, unless it’s to a favourite swimming hole where you can both cool off! Never leave your dog in a car parked in the sun in the warmer months, even with the air conditioning on.

Almost all dogs enjoy a dip in cool water in summer heat

2) If you have to leave your dog in the car briefly, park in a really shady spot, taking note of where the sun is headed. Leave the windows open as much as is safe to keep your dog in and dog thieves out. Breeze Guard window screens are a great product that can be custom made to fit any vehicle and allow windows to be left fully open. The 1/4 inch powder coated steel mesh keeps him secure in the vehicle while keeping people out. If you want additional shade, (Aluminet) shade cloths have been proven to keep vehicle temperatures 10 degrees cooler than the exterior ambient temperature. These large (up to 10×20 feet) are draped over the vehicle to provide shade wherever you are.

3) Get a plastic wading pool for him to splash in. Simply fill with water, add toys, and let the fun begin!

4) Pupsicles. Pupsicles are a frozen treat your dog will love! They are easily made using a 1 litre yogurt pot, or even a medium sized mixing bowl. Simply fill about half way with a mixture of diced meat or hot-dogs , peas, blueberries and/or diced apple, and a small Nylabone, or other chew toy. Next fill the yogurt pot or bowl up with water or (if you want to get really rover the top) stock. Freeze for 4 hours or until it is frozen solid. When your pupsicle is completely frozen, you can run some warm water over the container to release it . Serve in a shady spot outdoors.

Jetstream cooling vest is great for helping active dogs stay cool in the summer heat

5) Cooling vests. Ruffwear Performance Dog Gear makes two styles of cooling vest: The Swamp dog cooling vest, a loosely fitted cooling vest suited for fluffier coats, and The Jet Stream cooling vest, more form fitted for dogs who partake in active summer fun. Each of these multi layered cooling vests performs by being soaked in cool water, and are then wrung thoroughly. The outer layer allows for cooling evaporation , the middle layer is absorbent and holds the cool water. The layer of fabric next to the skin is designed to wick moisture away from the skin, while allowing cooling vapours from the water to keep the dog’s skin significantly cooler than the ambient temperature.

Puppy socialization: Read this first!

Puppy socialization: Read this first!

Puppy socialization:  Most new puppy owners have heard those words.  Indeed, the term “puppy socialization” hangs like the very Sword of Damocles, in just about every dog training and puppy rearing website on the internet.  The critical socialization period starts at just 2 – 3 weeks and is over at 16 to 18 weeks. The message is that If your puppy is not properly socialized by the time the critical socialization period is over, he will have problems for the rest of his natural life.   There are many published studies that suggest that good social experiences from a young age are imperative to puppy developing into a friendly and happy adult dog later on.  Properly socialized puppies are less likely to be hyperactive or fearful, engage in unwanted chewing or show aggression toward people or other pets.

So, let my puppy play with other puppies, right?

For many new puppy owners, this dire warning about early socialization is interpreted as a dire need for the puppy to play with other puppies.  And they are right:  Play with other puppies does play a key role in the early socialization process.  But from a behavioural standpoint, it is much more

Puppy socialization with child
Puppies should be familiar with children from a young age

important to get puppy thinking positively about all the things we take for granted that are part of living in a human directed society.  This includes people of all descriptions, places, objects, animals, environmental sounds and experiences.  Don’t get me wrong: Playing with other puppies is important to developing pups!  But there are much more pressing issues to consider to get an infant member of a foreign species to truly embrace human culture.

Develop positive social experiences gradually!

Puppies are born with an instinct to be really cautious about new things.  Dogs have evolved over tens of thousands of years and this instinct to be cautious has helped to ensure the success of their species.    After all, an overly precocious puppy can easily lose his way, get stuck somewhere, or be an all to easy snack for many predators.  So puppies have evolved to err on the side of caution about nearly everything.  Their instinct tells them to steer clear of wierd things and observe from a safe distance until the weird thing proves that it is safe, before approaching it.

Puppies can feel threatened by a lot of the weird things that we humans take for granted in our human oriented world.  Puppies can (and need to) learn to associate these weird things with good things happening.  Here are some things you can do to make sure your puppy gets the socialization experiences he needs to grow into a well behaved, problem free adult dog.

Tips to get on the right paw with puppy socialization

  1. Get a puppy from a breeder or shelter who does their work to socialize pups from just a few weeks old.  Handling should begin before puppies eyes open. Children should be carefully introduced to puppies before they leave their mother.  Poorly socialized mother dogs tend to produce shy or reactive puppies.  Insist on meeting at least the mother dog before adopting a puppy. If you choose to adopt a pup from a poorly socialized litter, know that the road ahead may hold challenges.
  2. Don’t push!. Let puppy set the pace. Wait with him and offer some snacks while he observes new things at a distance he is comfortable with, and gradually, systematically close the distance when he is comfortable.  If you use food at distances at which he is showing no fear, you will greatly speed up his progress.
  3. Puppy playgroups are a great start to learning how to play with other puppies.  Step in and quietly distract and redirect puppy if he plays too aggressively or rough for his playmates.  Be there to protect your puppy and remove him from the action if play becomes too intense.
  4. Socialization includes handling, people, places, things and noises.
  5. Download a variety of sounds from the internet.  Play sounds of children playing, babies crying, diesel trucks and fireworks at low volumes while you play with puppy.
  6. Don’t isolate your puppy in a crate most of the day.  Crates are a great place to nap and play when you can’t supervise, but they can act as a sensory deprivation chamber.  This can make the normal world really scary for your puppy.  Use the crate judiciously, and don’t overuse it.
  7. Take your puppy to puppy classes run by a CCPDT certified dog trainer.
Ditch the Label- Train the dog

Ditch the Label- Train the dog

Labels: We have all used them.  We use them as explanations for a dog’s behaviour and even for not dog training is simplebeing able to train particular dogs.  They are frequently used to blame the dog for training failures when the trainer reaches the end of their knowledge and abilities.  Labels are sometimes used to justify using unnecessary punishments on dogs.

Labels are often invented and used by “dog whisperers” to mystify dog behaviour even though dog behaviour is really very simple.

I’m going to throw these out there, and you just see if you recognize or even use any of them:

Dog training labels

  • Abused
  • Bad
  • Good
  • Aggressive
  • Alpha
  • Calm submissive
  • Dominant
  • Stubborn
  • He’s a ___________ (fill in breed name)
  • Difficult
  • Dumb
  • Smart
  • Impossible

Labels do nothing to help train a dog.  Too often, a label is an excuse for not training a dog or even for using harsh training methods on a dog.  Using them is not helping you or the dog.

All animal  and human behaviour is based on just 3 things: 

  1. Antecedent. (What happens right before the behaviour happens)
  2. Behaviour. (What the animal does)
  3. Consequence. (What happens right after the behaviour)

Dogs do what works for them to get things they want, or to avoid things they don’t want.  There are no exceptions to this.  This means, when your puppy jumps up on your guests, and getting reinforced with interaction (off! No! Down! are attention too!) he is not being dominant, there is no complexity in the greeting ritual.   Here is how the behaviour sequence looks:

  1. Antecedent: Guest arrives.
  2. Behaviour: Puppy jumps up
  3. Concequence: Puppy is told “off!”or “down”  

With this sequence, Puppy is likely to continue jumping up, as “off” or “down” mean nothing to him and he is way too excited to care anyway.  As far as he is concerned, “off” and “down” are sounds humans  make when they greet him.

Another way it could happen is this:

  1. Antecedent: Guest arrives
  2. Behaviour: Puppy jumps up and then sits down
  3. Consequence: Puppy is reinforced with praise and a treat

With this sequence, Puppy is likely to continue the jumping and then sitting


  1. Antecendent: Guest arrives
  2. Behaviour: Puppy has four paws on the floor
  3. Consequence: Puppy is reinforced with praise, quickly followed by  a treat

With this sequence, puppy is likely to keep his feet on the floor.  Once he is used to this, we can start to add another behaviour, like “sit”.

If training is failing, it might be due to a failure in simplicity, timing, or consistency.  We need to be sure not to ask for too much too soon.  Training failures are never due to the dog being unbalanced or dominant or because he is a _________. There is no room for labels in the application of behaviour principles in dog training.   If a dog is not doing what we want him to do, we have to stop labelling (and blaming) him and adjust our training plan so that he can understand it easily.

For more info, check out our website at:

Leash aggression and reactive behaviour in dogs

Leash aggression and reactive behaviour in dogs


Tips for teaching your dog to be calm around other dogs


As a dog trainer, one of the most common dog behaviour problems that I help people with is leash reactivity. This is also one of the most upsetting problems that dog owners face.  It’s really tough watching your normally sweet natured, smart, best friend dog react to others of his species with a lunging, snarling, aggressive, threat display. And for nearly all dog owners it’s really embarrassing to have a dog who lunges at other dogs and acts like an absolute nutbar on walks.  But owners often accept it as a necessary rite of taking the dog for a walk. After all, it’s just normal behaviour for (insert breed here) dogs to be reactive to other dogs. But for most dogs of any breed that are volatile on leash, and their humans, life does not have to be like this. Most leash reactive dogs can learn to be calm around all other dogs.


The reasons some dogs react aggressively to other dogs when on leash vary, but the primary motivation is nearly always the same: this behaviour works to get rid of the disturbing dog, and this crazy behaviour has become habit. The dog often gets himself into such a high arousal state, that he can’t calm down, and any attempts to intrude on his little tantrum with corrections or misguided food rewards by the owner often add fuel to the fire.  I am not going to write a detailed description for helping all dogs to calm down around other dogs here, because I believe although the primary motivation of a reactive dog is pretty common, there are many other factors at play, including, but not limited to past experience., owner interaction etc. You really need the guidance of a CCPDT certified dog trainer with an aggression issue. That being said, here are a few general tips that work:


  1. Stick with a reward based training and rehabilitation program!        Here is why:  While you can stop a dog from performing a particular behaviour using corrections (electronic shock,stim,vibe, collar checks, shake cans, spray bottles, and the like) you aren’t helping to address the underlying arousal that is causing the behaviour.  In fact you are probably increasing the arousal as you suppress the threat display that the spazzy behaviour represents. Because by adding something else the dog doesn’t like to his environment, his stress level rises accordingly. This means, even though he might suppress the aggressive display when you are in control, the dog is still going to be motivated to scare the bejesus out of whatever he thinks might be a threat.   So when he is not in your direct control, he is likely to still perform the aggressive/threat display. At which time you could start to use a stronger shock or leash pop or whatever you are using.  And then your dog will develop some other issue, and you will still have a dog that can act crazy at times.                                                                                                                                                                                          When you use a reward based training system, you can reduce the arousal to the point where the dog no longer feels he needs to make a big threat display. In short: The dog learns to associate his own calming behaviour with a food reward, eventually even in the face of whatever creeped it out in the first place.  He doesn’t spaz out like a Tazmanian Devil on a leash anymore because he feels absolutely no need to, because the self calming behaviour that you taught him, and your own calm behaviour (because he’s calm) make him more confident and less worried and creeped out by other dogs. He’s going to be calm even when not under your direct control, too.  You get better results and way more bang for your buck with a positive, reward based training system.
  2. During the retraining period, avoid situations where the unwanted behaviour is going to get a chance to repeat.  Some dogs develop new skills faster than other dogs, but generally it can be several months before the new self calming behaviour is really solid. Prevention is imperative during the retraining period.  
  3. Attention and Focus train, so that your dog instantly looks at you with curiosity as soon as you say his name.  Practice this skill just before each walk.                           
  4. Teach a hand touch in a non-distracting environment where no other dogs will creep your dog out and make him want to act like a lunatic.   This will become his go-to self calming behaviour.  Remember, it takes at least 100 repetitions for any behaviour to become solid.                                                                                                                                             
  5. Teach a solid stay.  And practice it every single day, using a positive, game based approach.   Stay is an exercise that teaches the dog self calming, and self confidence.  It really, really helps.   

Get help from a CPDT-KA or CPDT-KSA dog trainer who uses positive, reward based methods.  Positive trainers are the ones with the clickers and front attachment to the leash type harnesses and treat pouches.  Positive trainers always eschew e-collars in all their forms, and pretty much any collar with a metal chain. You won’t regret hiring a properly certified trainer.

Housetraining your puppy: 5 tips for success

Housetraining your puppy: 5 tips for success

How to house train Bulldog PuppiesPotty training a puppy or new rescue dog takes dedication, a plan, good timing and lots of love and patience. Remember, your puppy is a member of a foreign species that has no way of understanding that her potty is outdoors until you show her very clearly. If she makes a mistake, don’t get mad, and don’t correct.  Assess what YOU need to do better and then work with her according to a well thought out plan. Here are some quick and easy tips for puppy potty training will help you get your new puppy or new rescue dog on the right paw for a lifetime of good habits.

  1. Schedule all food, water, potty time. Take her out about every hour at first.
  2.  Confine with a crate or tie her near you or to you or supervise all the time. She should spend the majority of the time interacting with you, not alone in her crate.  Remember:  She will sniff the floor very briefly right before she potties. This is when you need to hustle her out. FAST!
  3. When she gets outside, you must go with her with food rewards. Run with her to the same spot every time. she will forget why she went out. Don’t play with her until after she potties. When she goes, praise her dramatically, give her food (important!) as you praise. Then play with her for a few minutes before you go back inside.
  4.  Keep her off the carpets! Thoroughly clean up any accidents with an odour neutralizing cleaner like white vinegar. Don’t worry, the vinegar smell goes away.
  5. Don’t scold for accidents! Just interrupt with a loud (don’t scare, interrupt) noise Silently hustle her outside. Clean the accident up when you get back. She is just performing to natural, unconscious (like a toddler)bodily functions. If you scold she will get scared and not want to go potty in front of you. Which will be a problem when you try to get her to potty outside.

Reactive Dog? Aggressive Dog? What’s the difference?

Reactive Dog? Aggressive Dog? What’s the difference?

Aggressive dog snarlingThe terms, “Reactive” and “Aggressive” are sometimes used interchangeably. Neither word defines the dog, but both words describe behaviour which is very often rooted in fear, and rarely, in dysfunctional social skills.

The only way to fix reactive dog behaviour permanently is to change the emotional response of the dog to the scary thing is by carefully applying a program of progressive counterconditioning and desensitization and having the dog practice self control through specialized interactive games. Changing reactivity to non reactive, calm behaviour requires changing the dog’s emotional response to a perceived threat, whether we are dealing with leash reactivity, resource guarding, or any other situation where the dog becomes aggressive.

Why not just correct the dog with a tug on a training collar, or another physical or verbal correction when he acts aggressively? There are several good reasons not to correct your dog for aggression. The first is that most dogs will figure out that when scary things approach, you become aggressive and confusing. This will stress a dog more, and the dog will often learn to associate the scary thing with stress and getting a physical correction. Then when you aren’t around, the aggressive behaviour tends to increase, and new anxiety related behaviour may show up. Science has shown that dogs who are trained through the use of corrections are more likely to show an increase in aggressive behaviour. Since the early 21st century, at least two published studies have found that dog aggression and anxiety behaviours increased when punitive training methods were used.** Meghan Herron and her colleagues from the School of Veterinary Medicine at the University of Pennsylvania reported in the journal Applied Animal Behavior Science that using punishing techniques when training dogs tends to increase the aggression in the animals, rather than decreasing it.** Not surprisingly, dogs trained using corrections don’t learn as quickly as dogs trained using positive reinforcement with a scientifically designed training protocol. One study even found that most owner directed aggression would cease when the dog owner stopped using physical corrections in training.

The only long term, effective approach to training a reactive dog is always to use a counterconditioning and desensitization protocol.

How long will it take? The time it takes to thoroughly fix any behaviour problem depends on the individual dog, owner compliance to the training program, and how many times the behaviour has repeated itself successfully before the training program began. While improvement is typically seen after the first session, each repetition of the new, calm behaviour will help to make the threat response disappear for good. It can take up to 3 months of practicing controlled repetitions before the new, confident, controlled and relaxed emotions are solid enough to be reliable.

** Dog Training Methods: Their Use, effectiveness and interaction with dog behaviour and and welfare, EF Hibey et al, Journal of Animal Welfare (2004)
**Survey of the use and outcome of confrontational and non-confrontational training methods in client-owned dogs showing undesired behaviors Meghan E. Herron *, Frances S. Shofer, Ilana R. Reisner, Journal of Applied Animal Behaviour (2009)

5 tips to help keep senior dogs healthy and happy

5 tips to help keep senior dogs healthy and happy

Senior dogs can stay active and healthy as they age.  Although there are definitely genetic components to aging, here 5 tips to help your dog to stay healthy and happy during their senior years. Please click on the links for even more information!

  1.   Keep her physically active.  Walks can become several short jaunts at her own pace instead of one long hike.   You might find she still likes to zip around a bit off leash, so go to the dog park when there aren’t a bunch of young dogs there.  Play a little fetch if she likes to play fetch.  Besides walking, older dogs can benefit from doggy exercises like a sit/stand sequence, and mild pedestal exercises. Exercises like these help to keep the hip joints active and limber, so your dog can stand up more easily.
  2. Help her to stay mentally active with interactive games, tricks, and even puzzle toys and chew toys.  Staying mentally active helps to keep dementia at bay.  Your old dog might not be up to going for a run anymore, but she will certainly appreciate any chance to show off her mad skills at “high-five”.  Check out theses activities from
  3. Keep her from gaining too much weight.  Excess weight is really hard on the joints and organs like the heart.  There are many senior diets available that are lower calorie and protein than the ones made for all life stages.  You may find that switching to one of these diets helps to keep the pounds from adding up to excess.  If your dog is on a raw or home cooked diet, adjust the ingredients as necessary by adding more fresh vegetables.
  4. Keep toenails trimmed.  Some senior dogs become sensitive about nail trims.  If this is the case with yours, your veterinarian can very likely assist with this.
  5. Take her to visit the veterinarian.  A veterinarian can give her a thorough check and make sure bumps and lumps aren’t cancerous tumors.  Your vet might prescribe a non steroidal anti inflammatory (like Metacam)to help your dog feel more comfortable.  More vets are prescribing CBD oil for dogs, which is proving to be effective for many of the ailments caused by the aging process.
10 Dog Training Tips for Success

10 Dog Training Tips for Success

Here are 10 dog training tips that will help you to get the best out of your dog.

  1. Have a basic routine and always be consistent with training and rules. Don’t allow the dog on the bed sometimes if you don’t want the dog on the bed at other times.
  2. Keep training sessions short and sweet.  Aim for 3-5 minutes per session, 4 or 5 times per day.  Short dog training sessions will help your dog to stay focussed and interested.  Like they say in show biz: “Always leave them wanting more!”
  3. Think of the behaviour  you want rather than the behaviour you don’t want.   Use positive reinforcement to create positive associations with doing what you want.  Don’t let him self reward for behaviour you don’t want by preventing this behaviour while you teach the one that you want.
  4.  Be assertive, not dominant.  Just forget about dominance. Your dog doesn’t want to be your boss and could care less about Alpha status.  He just wants to get what he wants the easiest, most efficient way.  If he can get a sandwich when he steals yours, he will steal your sandwich. If he can get you to give him a treat just by lying down and waiting, he will lie down.
  5. Set goals for behaviour. Work in baby steps to reach the goal.  If your dog fails at one step more than twice, go back to the last step and repeat it a few times before trying the more difficult progression again.
  6. The harder the behaviour we want from the dog, the higher value the reward should be.
  7.  Be a slot machine, not an ATM.  Start with frequent, small rewards, and as soon as you get the behaviour 10 times in a row, start to make the treats intermittent.
  8. Keep your treat pouch behind your left buttock. Then it won’t distract your dog.
  9. Always reward on and off leash check-ins, at least with a really happy greeting and sometimes with a food reward or game.
  10. All training starts with creating a positive association with attention to name.  Practice saying her name and rewarding a few times a day.